Chongming Island

An island north of Shanghai, has a long-standing technique of backstrap weaving for band making.

Zhidai

Pinyin of band weaving, referring to the belt-like fabric made by backstrap weaving in China.

Backstrap Weaving

A traditional weaving method where one end of the warp threads is attached to the weaver’s waist and the other end is fixed to a stationary object. The weaver controls the tension by adjusting their body, making it ideal for portable, small-scale weaving like Chongming band weaving.

Shuttle

A tool used to pass the weft thread through the warp threads during weaving. It holds the thread and makes the weaving process easier and more efficient.

Weaving Board (Heddle)

A wooden frame or flat board with small slots and holes (the total number of slots and holes must be odd, with one more hole than slots) is used during the weaving process to control the warp threads, helping to create patterns and textures on the band.

Warp

The set of vertical threads held in tension on the loom or weaving board, forming the foundation of the woven band.

Weft

The horizontal threads that are woven through the warp to create the fabric or band.

Tension

The force applied to the warp threads to keep them taut during weaving. Proper tension ensures an even and consistent weave.

Jacquard Weaving

A complex weaving technique where individual warp threads are manually adjusted to pass over or under the weft, creating intricate designs and patterns. This method allows for detailed and multicolored motifs, making the final woven product more decorative and intricate.

Cotton

A soft, natural fiber that is commonly used in band weaving for its durability and comfort. Cotton threads are often chosen for their breathability and ease of handling.

Linen

A natural fiber made from the flax plant, linen is strong and absorbent, making it suitable for durable, high-quality woven bands.

Wool

A natural fiber obtained from sheep, wool is known for its warmth and flexibility. It is sometimes used in band weaving to create softer, warmer textures.

Warping

The process of setting up the warp threads on the weaving board, which forms the foundation of the weaving.

Weaving

The act of interlacing the weft threads through the warp threads using a shuttle to create the band or fabric.

Adjusting Tension

Maintaining or modifying the tension of the warp threads by adjusting the body position or the loom to ensure consistent weaving.

Patterning

The process of creating designs or patterns in the woven band by manipulating the warp and weft threads or by using different colored threads.

Finishing

The final steps of trimming loose threads, securing the ends, and sometimes adding decorative elements or knots to complete the band.

Arranging and Tensioning the Threads

The Chongming band weaving process begins with the careful arrangement of the warp threads. These threads are organized based on the specific color sequence required to create the intended design. Each thread is threaded individually through the slots and holes of the weaving board (also known as a heddle), which serves as the tool for controlling the warp threads. Typically, the length of the threads exceeds 1 meter, depending on the desired length of the final woven band. Once the threads are securely in place, both ends are tied into tight knots, ensuring the alignment and tension of the warp. The knotted ends are then fastened — one end to the weaver's waist and the other to a stable object such as a pole or any fixed point. This ensures that the threads remain stretched and taut, an essential factor in achieving an even and consistent weave.

Weaving and Pattern Formation

In this traditional backstrap weaving method, the weaver controls the tension of the threads and the pattern formation by manually adjusting the weaving board. By moving the weaving board up and down, the weaver controls which warp threads are raised and lowered, determining the placement of the different colored weft threads. This allows for a clear separation between the warp threads, facilitating the passage of the weft thread. Using a shuttle, a specialized tool that holds the weft thread, the weaver passes the weft horizontally through the warp. The shuttle glides over and under the alternating warp threads as directed by the position of the weaving board.

Creating Complex Patterns with Jacquard Weaving

To create more complex patterns and designs, a technique known as jacquard weaving is employed. In this method, the weaver manually adjusts the position of individual warp threads by lifting or lowering them to create intricate designs. This technique allows the weaver to selectively raise specific threads, enabling the weft to pass over or under them in a precise manner, resulting in detailed, multicolored patterns on the band. By using jacquard weaving, the weaver can manipulate the warp to form intricate geometric patterns, floral designs, or other complex motifs. The manual adjustment of the warp threads gives the weaver full creative control over the design, allowing for a highly personalized and artistic outcome.

Combining Tradition and Creativity

The combination of backstrap weaving, the precise use of the shuttle, and jacquard techniques enables the creation of Chongming woven bands that are not only functional but also rich in cultural symbolism and artistic expression. Each woven piece is unique, reflecting the skill and creativity of the weaver.

Handwoven Textile Techniques, such as Band Weaving, in Global Use

Handwoven textile techniques like band weaving have been used across cultures for centuries. These techniques have served both functional and decorative purposes in various parts of the world. For example, in Peru, traditional backstrap weaving is used to create intricate, colorful belts and straps known as "fajas." In Norway, card weaving or tablet weaving is used to create patterned bands for traditional clothing, while Latvia is known for its brightly colored woven belts, often featuring geometric and folk designs that reflect the country’s rich cultural heritage.

Despite the geographical differences, many woven patterns have become hard to trace to their original origins due to global exchanges and cultural influences. As weaving techniques spread through trade and communication, motifs and styles were often adapted and modified across regions. This has resulted in a fascinating blend of designs, making it difficult to pinpoint the exact sources of certain motifs.

The Symmetry of Chongming Band Weaving Patterns

In China, particularly on Chongming Island, traditional band weaving has been preserved for generations, and the woven bands from this region exhibit a distinct characteristic: symmetry. One of the most notable features of Chongming woven bands is their use of symmetrical patterns. These designs are typically composed of two types of symmetry—vertical symmetry (up-down) and horizontal symmetry (left-right). This creates a balanced and harmonious appearance in the woven bands, which are visually appealing and culturally significant. The patterns often feature repeating geometric shapes, such as diamonds, squares, or waves, which are mirrored across the centerline of the band. This cyclical repetition of symmetrical elements is a hallmark of Chongming weaving, contributing to the distinct aesthetic of the bands.

Chinese Characters in Chongming Band Weaving

In addition to geometric designs, some woven bands from Chongming Island also incorporate Chinese characters. A popular example is the character 喜 (xi), which means "happiness" or "joy." The inclusion of this character adds a deeper cultural meaning to the bands, symbolizing good fortune and blessings for those who wear or use them. These characters are typically woven in a bold, clear style, standing out against the background patterns, making the band not just a decorative item but also a carrier of cultural and emotional expression.

In conclusion, while many band weaving patterns around the world have become intertwined and indistinguishable due to globalization, Chongming band weaving stands out for its unique use of symmetry and the occasional incorporation of Chinese characters, which reflect the cultural roots and artistic traditions of this region.

Historical Background of Chongming Band Weaving

The history of Chongming band weaving dates back centuries, rooted in the daily lives of the island’s inhabitants. Chongming Island has long been an agricultural and fishing community, and weaving was an essential domestic skill. Originally, band weaving was practiced to produce functional items such as belts, straps, and harnesses, all integral to the local way of life. As Chongming developed over time, weaving became not only a practical craft but also a symbol of cultural pride and identity.

The use of backstrap weaving, an ancient technique found across various cultures globally, was adapted by the people of Chongming to suit local needs and aesthetic preferences. Backstrap weaving involves securing one end of the warp threads to the weaver’s waist and the other to a stationary object, allowing the weaver to control the tension and pattern through body movement. This portable method of weaving was especially suited to the lifestyle of Chongming's rural communities, where space and resources were often limited.

Contemporary Revival and Preservation Efforts

In recent years, there has been a growing movement to revive and preserve Chongming band weaving. Efforts have been made to document the history and techniques of this traditional craft, and local artisans have begun to explore new ways to keep the tradition alive in a modern context. For example, some weavers are experimenting with new materials, such as synthetic fibers and natural dyes, to create contemporary interpretations of traditional designs. Local cultural organizations and government bodies have also recognized the importance of preserving Chongming band weaving as part of the island’s intangible cultural heritage. Through festivals, exhibitions, and educational programs, younger generations are being introduced to the craft, ensuring that it remains a vital part of Chongming's cultural identity.

The Legacy of Chongming Band Weaving

In the past, band weaving on Chongming Island played a crucial role in the daily lives of local women. The woven bands, known for their strength and versatility, were used for a variety of practical purposes such as tying bundles, securing aprons, and even as straps for carrying babies. These bands were not only functional but deeply symbolic, reflecting the labor and care of women in their households. However, in the modern world, the need for such tools has diminished due to industrialization and the availability of more convenient alternatives. Despite this shift, it is essential that the art of Chongming band weaving continues to be preserved and celebrated, not only for its historical value but also for its broader implications for women’s rights, cultural heritage, and innovation.

Women’s Empowerment and Cultural Identity

Traditionally, band weaving was an activity closely associated with women. It was both a domestic task and a skill passed down through generations, creating a space where women could express themselves creatively and contribute to the family's daily needs. In many ways, weaving symbolized the silent yet significant role women played in maintaining the household. Today, although we no longer need woven bands for the same practical purposes, preserving this craft serves as a reminder of women's contributions throughout history. In an era where women’s rights are increasingly recognized and championed, the legacy of Chongming band weaving can be seen as a metaphor for women’s resilience, strength, and creativity. By continuing this craft, we honor the historical role of women while also providing a platform for female artisans to showcase their skills in a modern context. Furthermore, band weaving can serve as a form of economic empowerment for women. As interest in sustainable and handmade products grows, traditional crafts like band weaving have the potential to generate income for female artisans. This not only provides economic benefits but also reinforces the value of women’s work, both historically and in contemporary society.

Innovation and Creativity

While Chongming band weaving has deep roots in tradition, it is also a craft that offers vast opportunities for innovation. The patterns and techniques developed over centuries can inspire modern artists and designers to create new, contemporary works. In the fashion industry, for instance, traditional woven bands could be incorporated into clothing and accessories, offering a unique blend of historical and modern aesthetics. Additionally, sustainability is becoming a growing concern in the world of design. Chongming band weaving uses natural fibers like cotton, linen, and wool, making it an eco-friendly alternative to mass-produced synthetic materials. This aligns with the global movement towards sustainable fashion and ethical production, where handmade, environmentally conscious products are highly valued. Innovating within this craft allows us to bridge the gap between tradition and modernity, creating products that respect both cultural heritage and environmental responsibility.